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  • Joe Fratianni

New Routes & Additions in Panorama Sector

Updated: May 5, 2021

I bolted a few things on the right side of sector Panorama in 2018. There are two completely new lines, two variations/extensions and a few bolts to establish a link. I think the diagrams are self-explanatory. I bolted the routes in July of 2018 at which time I did a lot of cleaning of loose rock and vegetation as well as checking out some other potential lines for new routes.

This part of the sector is not as popular as the part closer to the Grande Grotta. The routes are challenging with fair grading, somewhat technical and hard to on-sight, and unfortunately still a bit rough on the skin.

There are some possibilities for more routes, primarily in the short overhanging scoop formation on the right side of the crag. These routes would be short powerful routes at a fairly hard level, perhaps 7c to 8a+/8b is my guess. These hard routes would be short, around 15 to 16 meters, and powerful -- more like bolted boulder problem. Which would be atypical for Kalymnos. Additionally, there is also room for hard "techy" routes to the left of "L'homme qui tombe a spit". One or two lines would be possible there. I did some preliminary cleaning on that wall in 2018 and played around with some possibilities. These potential lines, if realised, would be harder than any other routes on the wall.

The link up bolts at the top of the route "Eureka" allow you to extend the route to the anchor of "D.T.F." ('Difficult To Finish'). Those couple of meters are harder than the moves of the 6a rated "Eureka" -- perhaps 6a+/6b. The new route "Athina" is named after one of my clients turned friend that began climbing on Kalymnos and has just blossomed in her relationship to climbing. The short route fills in an overhanging line on pockets and finishes on demanding crimps. It is like a indoor gym competition route as it gets harder the higher you go. The last bolt before the anchor is best to clip from below, regather yourself, and then make the final move up to clip the chains. You can continue upward and link "Athina" with "La vie salon Gege" -- either going to the routes original lower-off or clipping the bolts on the right to continue up the extension (this would make the route a 6c+).

The extension of "La vie salon gege" moves to the right on the upper part of the original bolt line continuing on the left leaning ramp and up on the right side of the large tufa that forms the upper part of the finish of "D.T.F.". The extension is just 7 meters or so with friendly bolting that is fun to climb. Climbing "La vie salon Gege" to the extension is 6b+ but maybe even 6c. I have spoken to a handful of climbers who have done the extension and most feel the grade is at 6c.

The left exit variation to "L'homme qui tombe à spit" maintains the routes difficulty of 7b throughout. The original exit finishes in an open book structure that is quite a bit (6a+) easier than the first half of the route. The left exit is technical and requires clever route finding. The full 37m of the route with the left exit goes at 7b+.

"The Power Company" is a fully new 30m line. The route is named after after the on-line coaching and podcast resource that I have found very helpful and inspirational in my own climbing and coaching. The route has a few hard and clever moves on it with a short rightward bulge to overcome just a couple meters before the lower-off. The route is 7b+ or 7c -- i think that it is more towards the 7c mark. What i like about this route and the left exit of "L'homme ..." is that you have to climb to find rests and clipping positions then come back into a more direct line to climb further. It requires some creative thinking and tactics.

All the routes on this far right side of Panorama are a little sharp and challenging. The area is a bit under visited and under developed because of the challenging climbing, sharper rock and grading that does not give anything away for free.

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